FINISHED! - 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno

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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby dearn » Tue 6. Nov 2012, 20:47

Thanks for getting some numbers. It's getting better and better. I hope place a short movie this weekend :D
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby dearn » Fri 16. Nov 2012, 23:03

Today I received my big yellow and red emergency switch, thats getting on this weekend. I think i have found the correct PID past days with no over or undershooting. Its a bit harsh now and the the psu's/ motors making some noises but i will see how it's perform.

But i need some of your advice guys about making the profiles, its working but i dont really understand the forces. To get some nice motion i have to set up the lateral forces 100%, and the longitutional in about 20%, and also the vertical at 20%.
When i set up those motions at 100% i will fly of the sim. The motion is to big... (i also tried to make the max value a bit higher, it helps sometimes) the max duty cycle is 200 at this moment.

When i add the roll or pitch effects i have to inverse those, otherwhise they turn the sim the wrong way, strange isn't it?

Sample movie is coming, i have a few at this moment but made it in the wrong angle :roll:
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby motiondave » Sat 17. Nov 2012, 01:41

Profiles are a tricky thing.
Leave max duty cycle in jrk at 200 if it works. Sort profiles first if you can , then mess with max duty cycle.
Ok, try using auto max adjust for longitudinal and lateral. Leave at 100% and once you have some numbers, untick auto max adjust and manually change the numbers up or down. I found I had to find a nice number, test and re-test and then I change percentage down a bit. The add collision effect to soften the hard knocks.
Vertical force will need some sorting and it depends on the game.
For Dirt games, I found a auto max adjust drive of 400m was enough, then I unticked auto max adjust and then worked with that number. But one thing I did was I used collision effect on that vertical number to soften the WHAM!. I changed numbers and percentage till I found something i liked. And dont panic if you end up with a vertical of 871 and 7%, like I did for road racing on race 07. It works and gives me a decent vibration.
Pitch I have only used and I had to invert the force in math section. Roll I havent used, but it sort of works opposite to lateral.
Test and re-test and experiment. There is no magic solution, just a lot of trial and error.
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby dearn » Sat 24. Nov 2012, 15:50

Thanks motiondave :) i think i have a good profile *

I just had set up my camera when something bad happend.... 1 of the psu's blewed up. Now i have to find 2 new high amperage psu's. Any tips?

I had 30a, but they where at the max all the time.
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby vicpopo » Sat 24. Nov 2012, 18:29

Hi ,
If you have a large car battery use it and psu paralel.
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby floriske » Sat 24. Nov 2012, 20:11

Ouch! :(

Same problem I had with one of mine unfortunately.

I'm using these now:

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/12V-45A-600W-Swi ... 5ae92a13a5

And so far they handle it perfectly.
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby dearn » Sat 24. Nov 2012, 22:21

Hi vic, i don't really like the idea of a car battery, but thanks.

Floris, tnxs for your link. I remember you pm about those psu's, haha, it came out the way you said ;)

I've just bought 2 50A / 600watt psu's from ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130782300266
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby vicpopo » Sun 25. Nov 2012, 00:03

dearn wrote:Hi vic, i don't really like the idea of a car battery, but thanks.

No problem !! It was just a proposition ,with a car battery you would have always enough current for your motors.
I have bigworm also and Thanos adviced me to use a car battery.I didn't burn Psu , I burned instead h-bridge.
For your information I measured the motor resistor (armature) and I found 0,125 Ohm.That means that your motor needs 80 A when it starts.If you start full charge your PSU would be very good to support this current peak (it's like starting on a short circuit)
If you have a a ramp up on starting you can avoid this peak current!or a good car battery...
Best Regards
Ps: I didn't burn psu because I have a saberbooth wich drive motors with analog voltage ( no pwm) and I didn't find yet a suitable h-bridge for this motors .I have to test the pololu 18v25 but these motors burned all h-bridge I tested, even these that Thanos aprooved!!
Last edited by vicpopo on Sun 25. Nov 2012, 14:32, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby floriske » Sun 25. Nov 2012, 12:48

dearn wrote:Hi vic, i don't really like the idea of a car battery, but thanks.

Floris, tnxs for your link. I remember you pm about those psu's, haha, it came out the way you said ;)

I've just bought 2 50A / 600watt psu's from ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130782300266


The 50A psu's are a good choice I think!

They are very noisy, but this can easily be solved by disconnecting the fans and using pc 120mm fans. The original fans are 24V instead of 12V but since there is no rpm check and the psu works without the original fan connected you can simply connect the 12V fans to the psu's output.

The original ones in mine where 30cfm and the new ones 69cfm so they do a more silent and better job cooling them.

I've done this as well (with this I actually finished my sim last week :D) and hope to post some pictures today or tomorrow.
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Re: 2DOF Wormgear Race Simulator by Arno - WORKING P6!

Postby motiondave » Sun 25. Nov 2012, 13:14

noisy fans, turn volume up or wear head phones......
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